![\"00-diy-bookcase-upcycle\"](\"https:\/\/twomakeahome.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/00-diy-bookcase-upcycle.png\")
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nTools Required:<\/h1>\n\n- \nCircular Saw
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com\/e\/ir?t=twmaaho-20&l=ur2&o=1\")
<\/div>\n<\/li>\n- \nMiter Saw<\/div>\n<\/li>\n
- Pocket hole jig (like the Kreg Jig)<\/li>\n
- \nDrill\/Driver<\/div>\n<\/li>\n
- \nBrad Nailer<\/div>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Materials:<\/h1>\n\n- Old bookcase<\/li>\n
- 1″x2″ boards (for face frame – quantity depends on size of bookcase)<\/li>\n
- 1″x3″ boards (for door frames – quantity depends on size of doors)<\/li>\n
- 1\/4″ hardboard (a 2’x4′ piece should be sufficient)<\/li>\n
- 16″ edge-glued board (optional – for top)<\/li>\n
- Pocket hole screws<\/li>\n
- General purpose\/drywall screws<\/li>\n
- 3\/4″ brads<\/li>\n
- 2″ brads<\/li>\n
- Cabinet hinges<\/li>\n
- \nCabinet knobs<\/div>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
<\/p>\n
Here it is: dark wood grain , chipped veneer, sticker remnants and all. The good news is that it was solid – the back was made from 3\/4″ thick material!<\/p>\n
![\"01-diy-bookcase-upcycle\"](\"https:\/\/twomakeahome.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/01-diy-bookcase-upcycle-600x800.png\")
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nThe first thing I did was scrape the veneer from the front edges of the bookcase. This provided a good surface on to which the face frame could be glued. I did it with a wood chisel, and it took a lot longer than I originally thought given that some of the veneer was already starting to peel off the front edge.<\/p>\n
![\"02-diy-bookcase-upcycle\"](\"https:\/\/twomakeahome.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/02-diy-bookcase-upcycle-600x800.png\")
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nThe face frame was cut so that the vertical pieces would overhang the sides of the bookcase by 1\/4″.<\/p>\n
![\"03-diy-bookcase-upcycle\"](\"https:\/\/twomakeahome.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/03-diy-bookcase-upcycle-600x800.png\")
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nBecause I planned to add doors to the lower half of the bookcase, the middle shelf needed to be fixed. I drilled pocket holes<\/a> around the bottom of this shelf to attach it to the rest of the bookcase.<\/p>\n![\"04-diy-bookcase-upcycle\"](\"https:\/\/twomakeahome.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/04-diy-bookcase-upcycle-800x600.png\")
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nThen I used glue and pocket hole screws to assemble it, carefully checking for square as I went. Cooper inspected. Cooper approved. (At least I think so anyway.)<\/p>\n
![\"05-diy-bookcase-upcycle\"](\"https:\/\/twomakeahome.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/05-diy-bookcase-upcycle-600x800.png\")
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nThe face frame pieces were also assembled with pocket hole screws and glue. They were attached to the bookcase with 2″ brads and glue. I cut the top from a 16″ wide edge glued pine<\/a> board. This is optional, but I chose to do it to conceal the top, which gave away that this bookcase started life as a piece of RTA furniture. I also chose to round off the edges of the top piece with an 1\/8″ round-over bit in my router. But this too is completely optional.<\/p>\n![\"06-diy-bookcase-upcycle\"](\"https:\/\/twomakeahome.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/06-diy-bookcase-upcycle-600x800.png\")
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nThe top was attached with glue 1-1\/4″ screws from the inside of the bookcase.<\/p>\n
![\"07-diy-bookcase-upcycle\"](\"https:\/\/twomakeahome.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/07-diy-bookcase-upcycle-800x600.png\")
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nThe doors were made to fit the opening with a 1\/8″ gap all around. To determine the height of the doors<\/a>, I measured the opening then subtracted 1\/4″. To calculate the width, I measured the width of the opening, divided that measurement by two, then subtracted 3\/16″.\u00a0 The 1″x3″ frames were cut to fit those dimensions and assembled with pocket hole screws and glue.<\/p>\n![\"10-diy-bookcase-upcycle\"](\"https:\/\/twomakeahome.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/10-diy-bookcase-upcycle-600x800.png\")
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nThe door panels were cut from 1\/4″ hardboard, 2″ shorter and 2″ narrower than the door frames. (I found out that I should have cut them a little smaller when I attached the knobs to the doors, as I needed longer screws to go through both the frame and the panel.) I attached to the frames with glue and 3\/4″ brads.<\/p>\n
![\"11-diy-bookcase-upcycle\"](\"https:\/\/twomakeahome.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/11-diy-bookcase-upcycle-600x800.png\")
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nHere’s a finished door, ready for paint!<\/p>\n
![\"12-diy-bookcase-upcycle\"](\"https:\/\/twomakeahome.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/12-diy-bookcase-upcycle-600x800.png\")
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nThe bookshelf was painted with two coats of Zinsser primer and two coats of semi-gloss white paint. After painting, I realized that I needed to add a small block behind the face frame at the top of the door opening to attach the magnetic door catches.<\/p>\n
![\"13-diy-bookcase-upcycle\"](\"https:\/\/twomakeahome.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/13-diy-bookcase-upcycle-800x600.png\")
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nThe hinges that I found to work with the inset doors were not available in oil-rubbed-bronze, so I painted them with a metallic ORB paint from Rustoleum.<\/p>\n
![\"16-diy-bookcase-upcycle\"](\"https:\/\/twomakeahome.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/16-diy-bookcase-upcycle-800x600.png\")
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nThe hinges attached to the inside of the face frame and door frame.<\/p>\n
![\"17-diy-bookcase-upcycle\"](\"https:\/\/twomakeahome.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/17-diy-bookcase-upcycle-800x600.png\")
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nCabinet knobs were attached to the doors, about 5-1\/2″ inches from the top.<\/p>\n
![\"18-upcycle\"](\"https:\/\/twomakeahome.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/18-upcycle-800x600.png\")
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nAnd here is the finished product! We are really happy with how this turned out.<\/p>\n
![\"14-diy-bookcase-upcycle\"](\"https:\/\/twomakeahome.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/14-diy-bookcase-upcycle-600x800.png\")
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nAnd Jess made it look even better with a few decorative touches (as usual \ud83d\ude09 ).<\/p>\n
![\"21-diy-bookcase-upcycle\"](\"https:\/\/twomakeahome.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/21-diy-bookcase-upcycle-600x800.png\")
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\n <\/p>\n
<\/div>\n<\/li>\n<\/div>\n<\/li>\n)<\/li>\n<\/div>\n<\/li>\n<\/div>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nMaterials:<\/h1>\n\n- Old bookcase<\/li>\n
- 1″x2″ boards (for face frame – quantity depends on size of bookcase)<\/li>\n
- 1″x3″ boards (for door frames – quantity depends on size of doors)<\/li>\n
- 1\/4″ hardboard (a 2’x4′ piece should be sufficient)<\/li>\n
- 16″ edge-glued board (optional – for top)<\/li>\n
- Pocket hole screws<\/li>\n
- General purpose\/drywall screws<\/li>\n
- 3\/4″ brads<\/li>\n
- 2″ brads<\/li>\n
- Cabinet hinges<\/li>\n
- \nCabinet knobs<\/div>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
<\/p>\n
Here it is: dark wood grain , chipped veneer, sticker remnants and all. The good news is that it was solid – the back was made from 3\/4″ thick material!<\/p>\n
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nThe first thing I did was scrape the veneer from the front edges of the bookcase. This provided a good surface on to which the face frame could be glued. I did it with a wood chisel, and it took a lot longer than I originally thought given that some of the veneer was already starting to peel off the front edge.<\/p>\n
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nThe face frame was cut so that the vertical pieces would overhang the sides of the bookcase by 1\/4″.<\/p>\n
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nBecause I planned to add doors to the lower half of the bookcase, the middle shelf needed to be fixed. I drilled pocket holes<\/a> around the bottom of this shelf to attach it to the rest of the bookcase.<\/p>\n <\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nThen I used glue and pocket hole screws to assemble it, carefully checking for square as I went. Cooper inspected. Cooper approved. (At least I think so anyway.)<\/p>\n
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nThe face frame pieces were also assembled with pocket hole screws and glue. They were attached to the bookcase with 2″ brads and glue. I cut the top from a 16″ wide edge glued pine<\/a> board. This is optional, but I chose to do it to conceal the top, which gave away that this bookcase started life as a piece of RTA furniture. I also chose to round off the edges of the top piece with an 1\/8″ round-over bit in my router. But this too is completely optional.<\/p>\n <\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nThe top was attached with glue 1-1\/4″ screws from the inside of the bookcase.<\/p>\n
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nThe doors were made to fit the opening with a 1\/8″ gap all around. To determine the height of the doors<\/a>, I measured the opening then subtracted 1\/4″. To calculate the width, I measured the width of the opening, divided that measurement by two, then subtracted 3\/16″.\u00a0 The 1″x3″ frames were cut to fit those dimensions and assembled with pocket hole screws and glue.<\/p>\n <\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nThe door panels were cut from 1\/4″ hardboard, 2″ shorter and 2″ narrower than the door frames. (I found out that I should have cut them a little smaller when I attached the knobs to the doors, as I needed longer screws to go through both the frame and the panel.) I attached to the frames with glue and 3\/4″ brads.<\/p>\n
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nHere’s a finished door, ready for paint!<\/p>\n
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nThe bookshelf was painted with two coats of Zinsser primer and two coats of semi-gloss white paint. After painting, I realized that I needed to add a small block behind the face frame at the top of the door opening to attach the magnetic door catches.<\/p>\n
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nThe hinges that I found to work with the inset doors were not available in oil-rubbed-bronze, so I painted them with a metallic ORB paint from Rustoleum.<\/p>\n
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nThe hinges attached to the inside of the face frame and door frame.<\/p>\n
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nCabinet knobs were attached to the doors, about 5-1\/2″ inches from the top.<\/p>\n
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nAnd here is the finished product! We are really happy with how this turned out.<\/p>\n
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\nAnd Jess made it look even better with a few decorative touches (as usual \ud83d\ude09 ).<\/p>\n
<\/picture><\/a><\/p>\n <\/p>\n
<\/div>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/p>\n
Here it is: dark wood grain , chipped veneer, sticker remnants and all. The good news is that it was solid – the back was made from 3\/4″ thick material!<\/p>\n
The first thing I did was scrape the veneer from the front edges of the bookcase. This provided a good surface on to which the face frame could be glued. I did it with a wood chisel, and it took a lot longer than I originally thought given that some of the veneer was already starting to peel off the front edge.<\/p>\n The face frame was cut so that the vertical pieces would overhang the sides of the bookcase by 1\/4″.<\/p>\n Because I planned to add doors to the lower half of the bookcase, the middle shelf needed to be fixed. I drilled pocket holes<\/a> around the bottom of this shelf to attach it to the rest of the bookcase.<\/p>\n Then I used glue and pocket hole screws to assemble it, carefully checking for square as I went. Cooper inspected. Cooper approved. (At least I think so anyway.)<\/p>\n The face frame pieces were also assembled with pocket hole screws and glue. They were attached to the bookcase with 2″ brads and glue. I cut the top from a 16″ wide edge glued pine<\/a> board. This is optional, but I chose to do it to conceal the top, which gave away that this bookcase started life as a piece of RTA furniture. I also chose to round off the edges of the top piece with an 1\/8″ round-over bit in my router. But this too is completely optional.<\/p>\n The top was attached with glue 1-1\/4″ screws from the inside of the bookcase.<\/p>\n The doors were made to fit the opening with a 1\/8″ gap all around. To determine the height of the doors<\/a>, I measured the opening then subtracted 1\/4″. To calculate the width, I measured the width of the opening, divided that measurement by two, then subtracted 3\/16″.\u00a0 The 1″x3″ frames were cut to fit those dimensions and assembled with pocket hole screws and glue.<\/p>\n The door panels were cut from 1\/4″ hardboard, 2″ shorter and 2″ narrower than the door frames. (I found out that I should have cut them a little smaller when I attached the knobs to the doors, as I needed longer screws to go through both the frame and the panel.) I attached to the frames with glue and 3\/4″ brads.<\/p>\n Here’s a finished door, ready for paint!<\/p>\n The bookshelf was painted with two coats of Zinsser primer and two coats of semi-gloss white paint. After painting, I realized that I needed to add a small block behind the face frame at the top of the door opening to attach the magnetic door catches.<\/p>\n The hinges that I found to work with the inset doors were not available in oil-rubbed-bronze, so I painted them with a metallic ORB paint from Rustoleum.<\/p>\n The hinges attached to the inside of the face frame and door frame.<\/p>\n Cabinet knobs were attached to the doors, about 5-1\/2″ inches from the top.<\/p>\n And here is the finished product! We are really happy with how this turned out.<\/p>\n And Jess made it look even better with a few decorative touches (as usual \ud83d\ude09 ).<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/picture><\/a><\/p>\n <\/picture><\/a><\/p>\n <\/picture><\/a><\/p>\n <\/picture><\/a><\/p>\n <\/picture><\/a><\/p>\n <\/picture><\/a><\/p>\n <\/picture><\/a><\/p>\n <\/picture><\/a><\/p>\n <\/picture><\/a><\/p>\n <\/picture><\/a><\/p>\n <\/picture><\/a><\/p>\n <\/picture><\/a><\/p>\n <\/picture><\/a><\/p>\n <\/picture><\/a><\/p>\n <\/picture><\/a><\/p>\n <\/picture><\/a><\/p>\n